It was the best day of the whole trip so far. Over a few mountain passes with the last bring us along side Afghanistan with only a raging torrent of a river's separation. The roads ranged from sublime valley bottom pavement to bone rattling potholed gravel with the odd sandbar and shallow water crossing thrown in. The scenery left everyone gobsmacked - there really has never been a more appropriate use of that word.
The next day's ride down to Khorog was another tough but great day. 150 hard miles along the river with the road surface varying between dirt and broken pavement and back to dirt. A noticeable increase in traffic especially of the oncoming heavy truck variety. Again the scenery and vistas are incredible.
It is absolutely fascinating to observe the comings and goings of daily life on the other side. Don't think I have seen any modern conveniences outside a couple of motorcycles with everything seemingly being done through manual labour. The next day would get us a better look as we cross over for a day trip.